Andaman Birding

 

The Andamans bring to mind beautiful landscapes with clear waters, sandy shores and beautiful sunsets, or even exploring the mysterious world under the sea – an ideal summer getaway to destress from your everyday life.

 

It’s no surprise then that this is a place I have long wanted to visit. Egged on by movies depicting beautiful beaches, and water sports, I knew this would be the perfect place to kick back and relax before getting back to work.

 

While many here would go for the usual beach visits, scuba diving, snorkeling, etc, I wanted to do something a little different than the usual Andaman tour package for family. As a birder, I knew that bird watching in the Andamans would be amazing, with so many endemic species, so my itinerary was more or less decided.

 

I spent the entire week based more or less in Port Blair itself. Even birding tours in Port Blair can be highly enjoyable, with the amazing Mount Harriet National Park, Sippighat Swamp, Wandoor, and, of course, Chidiya Tapu. The birds here were so amazing that many times I didn’t even bother lifting up my camera, and just spent time watching them. From Andaman Teal and Andaman Green Pigeons, to the shy Andaman Crake, and of course, the variety of owls here! My week was simply stunning.

 

I won’t lie to you. My week here wasn’t all offbeat birding. I did a fair amount of touristy things. Scuba diving has long been something I wanted to try and thanks to this trip I got to do that too. And who can resist those pristine beaches! After a day full of birding, it was nice to kick back and watch a beautiful seaside sunset.

 

I didn’t even realize how quickly the week passed, and before you know it, it was time to go back home. Needless to say, my mind and heart would be back in the islands as I spent my days in office.

Amazing Birds and Mammals of Western Ghats

The Western Ghats range of southwest India is naturally abundant with wildlife, and is a paradise for birdwatchers, nature lovers, and photographers alike. Apart from many large mammals, including Gaur, Asiatic Elephant, Tigers, and more, the region is best known among birdwatchers for the 37 South Indian endemics, plus many birds shared with Sri Lanka, such as Malabar Whistling Thrush, White-bellied Treepie, Malabar Barbet, and many more birds with Malabar and Nilgiri in their names! This tour gives you the opportunity to explore Masinagudi, 

part of the Mudumalai National Park, as well as the popular hill station of Ooty, which few know is a birdwatching hub. Mudumalai National Park is located in southern India in the state of Tamil Nadu, although its boundaries border the states of Karnataka and Kerala as well.

 Located amidst the Nilgiri foothills, Mudumalai is home to a variety of birds and mammals. Adjoined by Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary and Bandipur National Park, Mudumalai has a fascinating topography that showcases a combination of valleys, plains, hills, swampland, and ravines.

Officially known as Udagamandalam, Ooty is a popular hill station in the Nilgiri Hills, often referred to as the “Queen of the Hills” by locals. There are a variety of tourist attractions here, including a “toy train”, many gardens and parks, historical buildings, and a tea factory. However, if you move away from the crowds, you find that the surrounding woods are a great place to go birding. Despite much of Ooty being “developed”, the birdlife here can still surprise you, with many endemic species and a host of migrants joining them in the winter.

Vibrant Garhwal

 The Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand denotes mainly the westernmost region of the state of Uttarakhand. In ancient times, this rugged mountain region was home to many forts, or ‘garhs’ which were then conquered and united to create the Kingdom of Garhwal. Apart from a rich history, this region is also home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, and some of the most famous birdwatching destinations of Uttarakhand.

Rishikesh is situated at the foothills of Garhwal Himalayan Range and offers fantastic views of hills covered with jungles. The Ganges river is visible (which runs at a speedy pace) from many places and the banks are full of ashrams. These ashrams have their roots in history and are popular worldwide for practicing yoga and meditation. 

It is said that in the Vedic age, many sages were attracted to Rishikesh as the calm surroundings of this place were best-suited for practicing yoga and meditation. This is why today Rishikesh is an abode for many sanyasis and sage. The place has popular spots like Laxman Jhula, which is believed to be built at a place where Laxman once crossed the holy river Ganges using a jute rope. 

Other than this, the place has various temples which have interesting religious back-stories. For the adventure lovers, the place offers water and mountainous sports like river rafting, skiing, trekking, hiking etc.

Historically, Dehradun was a part of the Garhwal Kingdom, and was also known as 'Kedarkhand'. It was founded by Ajai Pal, around 1400. The history of Dehradun is also linked to the story of the Ramayana and Mahabharata. It is believed that after the battle between Ravana and Lord Rama, Lord Rama and his brother Lakshman visited this site. Evidences such as ancient temples and idols have been found in the areas surrounding Dehradun which have been linked to the mythology of Ramayana and Mahabharata. The city was also an important site during the colonial British Raj, home to several military establishments even today.

Mussoorie lies about 30 km from Dehradun. This hill station, situated in the foothills of the Himalaya ranges, is also known as the Queen of the Hills, Being at an average altitude of 2,000m (6,600 ft), Mussoorie, with its green hills and varied flora and fauna, is a fascinating hill resort. Commanding snow ranges to the north-east and glittering views of the Doon Valley and Shiwalik ranges in the south, the town was once said to present a 'fairyland' atmosphere to tourists.

Birds of Tal Chhapar and Thar Desert

 After planning this trip for many years, and it being cancelled for a myriad of reasons, I finally had the chance to do some birding in Rajasthan, mainly the desert habitats. Non birders reading this may wonder why I’m ignoring all the beautiful forests India is home to, and why these seemingly lifeless places are such a Mecca for me. The answer is simple - these places are far from lifeless. Whether it is the colourful local life and beautiful traditional textiles, or the myriad of birds and animals one can find here, much of it uniquely adapted to the harsh conditions, these places are special indeed!

 The first place I visited was Tal Chhapar, from where I entered the desert, so to speak. While not completely barren, the habitat here is clearly of the drier variety. My main target here was the Indian Spotted Creeper. Most non birders may see a photo of this bird in a book and think “Why is this so special? It’s not even colourful or graceful?” Well, the unique habit of this bird, to scale up and down tree trunks like a woodpecker in search of food is something I find fascinating. Couple that with its amazing camouflage (thanks to that “boring” plumage), and the challenge makes the search even more fun! Needless to say, with the help of the accompanying guide, finding this bird was not a difficult task at all, although I won’t say it was easy.

 

I also got amazing photos of herds of Blackbuck, a graceful antelope I had last seen in

Velavadar in Gujarat. Not to mention my other lifer here - Yellow-eyed Pigeon. A lot of amateur birders may confuse this bird with the feral pigeons we see everywhere and again, this is something that only a birder will find special!

 

From Tal Chhapar, I moved on to Bikaner. The foodie in me knows Bikaner as the birthplace of many of my favourite snacks! However, I was here for a somewhat much less appetising experience. My interest here was birding near Bikaner, namely the Jorbeer Vulture Conservation Reserve. This place is a livestock carcass dumping ground that attracts scores of multiple vulture species as well as other scavengers. Only a truly dedicated birder would visit here, or at least one who is desperate to see vultures. In the 1990s, the use of the veterinary drug Diclofenac caused the vulture population in India to drop by 99%, what experts call the “Asian Vulture Crisis”. I still listen fascinatedly to the stories of some of my older birding friends who tell of days when you could see flocks of vultures in the cities. Now you know why these birds are so sought-after by birders, and the importance of places like Jorbeer.

 

After looking at what some (definitely not me) may call ugly birds in Bikaner, my next stop was Kheechan, to see a congregation of birds noone in their right mind would call anything less than elegant.

 

For years, locals in the village of Kheechan have put out grain for the Demoiselle Cranes that stop here during their migration. Kheechan has now become an important fueling stop for these amazing birds, who gather in the thousands, and a delight for birdwatchers who flock here (although in less numbers than the cranes).

 

After this amazing spectacle, I moved to the main stop in my tour: Desert National Park. Whoever thinks deserts are only hot has clearly not visited one in winter, and never done any birding at Desert National Park. The biting cold almost made me question my resolve a few times, but the promise of bustards was too great! Needless to say my guide was simply amazing, and got me great sightings of not only Great Indian Bustard, but also Macqueen’s Bustard, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark, Desert Lark, several wheatears, and many more lifers!! Needless to say, a piping hot fresh meal at a local dhaba was the least I could do for him!

 

What made this entire trip even more special was the colourful people here. Even in this harsh region, people are so welcoming, and their traditions and culture so colourful, it truly lifts the spirits. Several obligatory (but welcome) cups of chai in local houses, and a few games of cricket with the kids were the icing on the cake of my trip.

Which Himalayan Destinations Would Be The Best For Bird Watching?

 One usually thinks that birding in the Himalayas involves long tiring treks over steep slopes and camping in the mountains, all while carrying luggage and your birding equipment. While birding in the northernmost reaches of the mountains may be so, birding in the Himalayan foothills is actually a leisurely experience, and relatively easy.

The wildlife and birdwatching destinations of North India are perfect for anyone who is a first-time visitor to the country and its wildlife. With a wide variety of landscapes and habitats, home to a wide variety of animals and birds, this region is one of the most promising and fulfilling of wild destinations that India has to offer.  This guided birdwatching and wildlife tour takes you to some of the best sites of North India, such as Sultanpur National Park, the Doon Valley in the Garhwal Himalayas, Himalayan Foothills near Nainital, and the Corbett National Park, one of India’s premier tiger reserves. 

Your first destination on this tour of the Himalayan foothills is the picturesque Doon Valley, home to the hill station of Dehradun, the capital of Uttarakhand. Nestled amidst the Himalayas and the Shivaliks, and Rivers Ganges and Yamuna, Dehradun is one of the most popular hill stations of the country. Apart from being home to many tourist attractions, the Doon Valley is also a great birding destination, acting as a gateway to the rest of the Garhwal region, with species like Grey-headed and Scaly-bellied Woodpeckers, Crimson Sunbird, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Cinereous Vulture, and more. 

The nearby forests of Jabarkhet and the surrounding areas have immense ecological value, both for the biodiversity they harbor and the services they provide. As one of the few remaining natural forest patches near Mussoorie with connections to the Shivalik Hills and the middle Himalayas, they form an important wildlife corridor. They also sustain a critical water source that feeds into the Kolti Nala, which is the source of water supply for a large section of Mussoorie residents. 

From the Doon Valley in the Garhwal region, you head to the other part of Uttarakhand, known as Kumaon, and India’s oldest and possibly best-known tiger reserve, the Corbett National Park. Established as the Hailey National Park in 1936, Corbett is India’s oldest national park and tiger reserve. Located in the western Himalayan foothills, Corbett is one of India’s premier wildlife destinations. Apart from a healthy population of tigers and elephants, Corbett is also home to a wide variety of birds. The park is also home to a wide variety of habitats, from riverine belts, marshlands, and lakes, to forests and grasslands, adding to both its natural beauty and biodiversity.

Corbett is best explored by jeep or canter (open bus) safaris. One also has the option of staying inside the park at the forest rest house in Dhikala. However, the Dhikala Rest House is not luxurious, and only has a limited number of bookings available.

Moving up the Kumaoni foothills, you travel to the little hamlet of Pangot. Pangot is a quiet hamlet surrounded by the Himalayas, lush meadows, tall Deodar and Oak trees and is home to a variety of bird species. You will experience the true heritage of the ecovillage at a local family’s home, share a cup of tea with them, share their stories and experiences, experience the local cuisine and immerse yourself in the very aura of this quaint haven. 

Governor’s House (Raj Bhawan) is another excellent site to learn more about the old world charm of Pangot and its surrounding areas. Spend time walking around the village, observing the way of life and understanding the heritage and cultural values of Pangot and its neighbours, 

Nowadays, Pangot is first and foremost known as a birding paradise. The thick Deodar forests prove to be an ideal hangout hotspot for birds. One can see a variety of Himalayan species such as Himalayan Vulture, Blue-winged Minla, Spotted & Slaty-backed Forktail, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Kalij Pheasant, a variety of thrushes, and more. Almost 150 bird species have been recorded at Pangot and the surrounding areas.

 

Apart from being India’s oldest birding lodge, Jungle Lore Birding Lodge in Pangot is also at the forefront of the Zero Waste Pangot project, a project that aims to reduce waste by adopting responsible waste and water management practices, and teaching them to other lodges in Pangot. Through village walks, Jungle Lore also showcases local rural village life, while activities like cooking classes help traditional practices endure and spread.

Nearby Pangot is another birding hotspot known as Sat Tal. Located in the Himalayan foothills near Nainital, Sat Tal is named after the seven interconnected lakes located near it. Set amongst dense forests of oak and pine trees, Sat Tal is one of the few unspoiled and unpolluted freshwater biomes in India. These lakes are a paradise for migratory birds. It is home to a few camps being operated mostly by local people catering to tourists looking for outdoor vacations.

Sat Tal is home to the Sattal Mission Estate and Methodist Ashram, better known as the Sattal Christian Ashram, which was established in the early 20th Century by a Christian evangelist and missionary. It is one of the heritage places in Sat Tal and provides an insight into the olden times. Another heritage site in Sat Tal is the beautiful waterfall, Subhash Dhara, which is a natural spring of crystal clear water that cascades down from the lush oak forest. The locals of Sat Tal prepare local traditional delicacies which form the heritage value of the town.

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What Are Some Best Places For Birdwatching In Goa?

 

Goa is most popular for its beaches and happening nightlife. People from across the world visit this place. Tons of languages like English, Marathi and even Portuguese are spoken here. Since the place has international holidayers, you will find multilingual people who speak French, Russian, Spanish, and many other languages. 

Although the smallest state in the country, and a popular beach and party destination, Goa is a favourite destination for birders as well, as it offers a wide variety of birdlife and habitats ranging from coastal area to marshes, woodlands to the tropical jungles of Western Ghats. Goa is a birder’s paradise with many excellent habitats: wide river estuaries, mangrove swamps, marshes, scrub-covered hillsides, arid fields, rich forest reserves at the foot of the majestic Western Ghats and a spectacular bird-thronged lake at Carambolim.  Goa has nearly 460 species of birds. It also includes around 24 endemic species, which is phenomenal.

October to February is the best time of the year to visit the place. This is because, at this time, most of the migratory birds from colder regions come to Goa. The ornithological interest has been substantially increased in this place for a few years. Your experience in Goa will leave you ecstatic if you are a bird lover!

You can see many species endemic to peninsular India as well as a large number of wintering species from farther north and more widespread Asian birds. Wonderful birds, exquisite beaches, delicious food and the easygoing Goan lifestyle - it is almost too good to be true! 

 

The starts on a Goa birding tour are mostly early in the mornings. Since birds are constantly changing feeding and roosting areas according to water levels and other factors, there is no fixed schedule. Instead the guide will use his expertise to decide excursions on a daily basis. 

 

Among several sites, it’s advisable to spend a major amount of time in the Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary, focusing on finding those species that are Western Ghats endemics, forest and south Indian specialties, and any other species of interest that are found in the area. This includes specialties like Malabar Grey Hornbill, Crimson-backed Sunbird, Blue-winged Parakeet, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher and Malabar Whistling Thrush! At night, you can listen for the calls of owls, nightjars, and Sri Lanka Frogmouth. Among the smaller wildlife sanctuaries in Goa, Bondla is located on the lush Wester Ghat foothills. The Rangado river flows on the eastern side of the sanctuary and Mandovi river is on the northern side. One can spot a variety of birds, including Brown Fish Owl, Flame-throated Bulbul, Indian Scimitar and Puff-throated Babblers, White-bellied Woodpecker, and more

 

Throughout much of the trip, you will be based in Baga or Calangute. On a couple of occasions you can walk through the fields immediately behind your hotel; in years where the monsoon has been particularly substantial, these fields will be damp underfoot. 

Raptors are particularly well represented in Goa with Black and Brahminy Kites everywhere, and we should also see several spectacular White-bellied Sea Eagles. We’ll visit a harrier roost that contains good numbers of both Montagu’s and Pallid Harriers and where Booted Eagle and both Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles are common. 

 

Other possible excursions include a backwater river trip in search of crocodiles and the endemic Goan subspecies of Collared Kingfisher and trips to the local craft and flea markets. 

 

One of Goa’s avian specialties, Indian Pitta, is a much wanted species seen frequently by our guides on previous visits. 

 

Apart from birding Goa has many places of cultural and historical interest as well. If time permits, you can also spend time sightseeing in Old Goa and at the Hindu temple of Mangeshi. All of the sites that we'll visit in Goa are at a low altitude – none are above 400 meters.

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Which are the best birding areas in Kerala?

South India is known for its species richness, with a great variety of birds and mammals ranging from Asian Elephant and Nilgiri Langurs to the rare Mouse Deer. Bird species found in South India include White-bellied Treepie, Rufous Babbler, Crimson-backed Sunbird, Wayanad and Palani Laughingthrushes, Blue-winged Parakeet, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Mottled Wood Owl, Sri Lanka Bay Owl, Oriental Scops Owl, Brown Fish Owl, and Spot-bellied Eagle Owl. You should also be able to sight the Red Spurfowl, Grey Junglefowl, Indian Pitta, and the Grey-headed Fish Eagle.

 Two of the most popular birding destinations in South India are Thattekkad, and Munnar. These destinations are not only home to lush picturesque forests, but a variety of wildlife endemic to the Western Ghats.

When travelling here, your trip begins in Cochin, or Kochi where you can visit the Jewish Synagogue, St. Francis Church, the Dutch Palace and the Chinese fishing nets. 

 From Kochi, you will travel onward to Thattekkad bird sanctuary. Thattekkad, officially known as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, is a lowland forest with several types of ecosystems – Riverine, Grasslands, Evergreen, Scrub, Dry Deciduous, Lowland Forest, enabling it to be one of the best birding destinations in India. In Thattekkad, you can enjoy many bird-filled walks in the jungles, which can be very rewarding.

Specialties here include Grey-headed Bulbul, Wayanad Laughingthrush, White-bellied Treepie, Sri Lanka Frogmouth, Malabar Trogon, Red Spurfowl, Sri Lanka Bay Owl, Rufous Babbler, Blue-faced Malkoha, and Brown-breasted, White-bellied, and Rusty-tailed Flycatchers. Other species include Malabar Grey Hornbill, Malabar Whistling Thrush, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, White-bellied and Heart-spotted Woodpeckers, Black-throated Munia, Black-naped Monarch and Brown Hawk-Owl. Relax for a few hours during the heat of the day  before looking for nightjars in the bouldery patches known to the local guides. The nightjars seen here include Great Eared, Jerdon’s, Jungle and Savanna. Here you can also look for Grey Junglefowl, Jungle Owlet, Plain Flowerpecker, Rufous Babbler, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and many other species. Moreover, Thattekkad is ideal for seeing a good number of butterfly and mammal species.

From Thattekkad, you move further to the popular hill station of Munnar. Located at an altitude of 1600m above sea level, Munnar is a haven for peace and tranquility. From vast tea plantations to an array of trekking trails and magical waterfalls, the place is blessed with several scenic spots which are capable of making your southern journey experiential. Munnar has several temples, viewpoints, and waterfalls one can visit, as well as the famous tea plantations. Some of the popular sightseeing places here include the Munnar Tea Plantation, Mattupetty Dam for boating, Munnar Tea Museum. Visit the scenic beauty of Places like Pothamedu, Lock heart point or Gap Road, or take a jeep Safari to Koluthumalai to see the mountain heights of Munnar. One can also shop for farm-fresh spices here, including cardamom, coffee, pepper, cloves, and more.

 

Apart from the scenic beauty, Munnar is also a fantastic wildlife and birding destination. Around Munnar, the pockets of the “sholas” (a type of alpine meadow specific to the Western Ghats) and Nilgiri mountain grassland ecosystem are home to several of the endemic birds and various mammals including the endemic Nilgiri Tahr. The nearby Eravikulam National Park, and several sholas make for a variety of endemic species.

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