Monday 30 September 2019

Bharatpur of Maharashtra


I first moved to India in 2003. At the time, my interest in birding had not developed to the point it has now. It was usually restricted to watching birds at home, or on the occasional safari holidays my family took together. In addition, neither did I know any fellow birders, nor did I know any areas to go birding. Not to mention that I didn’t have my own means of transport at the time.




My mother and my uncle often told me about this place called Bhigwan, a 100km or so from Pune, where flamingoes were seen in large numbers every winter. Budding birder that I was, the word “flamingo” was like a flame to a moth. The very next winter I begged my uncle to take me there.

At the time, birdwatching at Bhigwan (which I came to know was just the name of the major settlement there) was a bit of a tricky affair. You had to find which place near the backwaters was not privately owned, dodge the landmines of cow and buffalo dung, and watch through binoculars. Photography was not an option unless you could bribe one of the fishermen to take you out on the water or had a massive lens. In addition, if you got too close to the water, there was the risk of sinking into the soft waterlogged mud. Not that any of that dampened my spirits.




Over the next few years, as I got my driving licence and got used to Indian traffic, I took my classmates to Bhigwan a few times. Uncooperative villagers, confusing directions, and the dismal condition of the road made it a tiresome journey just to see flamingoes from far away.

All that changed in 2011 when a few birding friends of mine introduced me to Sandip Nagare. Hailing from a small fishing village near Bhigwan named Kumbhargaon, Sandip and his brother used to take photographers in their boats to get up close photos of all the birds there. Slowly, Sandip started building up his business, buying more boats and training more people from the village.



Starting from only 3 people, Agnipankha now provides employment for 30 villagers in the area, and now has camping and dining facilities as well as rooms for overnight stay. Sandip also regularly rescues birds caught in fishing nets and often talks to the local youth about why birds are important. The employment he provides and the awareness that he spreads has led to a reduction in locals killing birds either for fun or for food.

An avid photographer himself as well as having authored books on Bhigwan’s birds, Sandip today not only provides birdwatchers and photographers opportunities to see and photograph the beautiful bird life of the area, but is also important in the local small-scale conservation of this hotspot.

Bhigwan, or to be precise the backwaters of the Ujjani Dam, has now become one of my favourite nearby birdwatching destinations. Apart from the large number of Greater Flamingoes that flock there every winter, the area also plays host to many other winter visitors, from ducks and waders, to Demoiselle Cranes, Western Marsh Harriers and Greater Spotted Eagles. The area also has an amazing diversity of resident birds such as Oriental and Small Pratincoles, Indian Coursers, Western Osprey, and more.



If you are a birdwatcher and have a few days free in Pune, Bhigwan is definitely worth a visit in any season!


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