Friday 24 May 2019

Big Cat Tour in India

What is it about the big cats that have attracted even the least interested people in the wild?




Is it their regal walk, discreet lifestyle, carrying the most savaged attack or their loud thunderous roar sending tremors in the forest?
It all started in the summers of 89 when I accompanied my father(the then delegate of WHO) in the untamed land of Africa. The six nights journey made us see the magnificent herds of Cape Buffalo, Asian Elephant, Hippos, Zebras, Wildebeest, Greater Kudu, Springbok but it was the valor of one lioness protecting her tiny tot from the vicious strike by the clan Hyenas that formed a lasting memory in mind. Perhaps my confrontation with the felines was so intense it sowed the seed of my dream of sighting all big cats living on this planet, starting from my home country India which is also a paradise for feline lovers.




My endeavor brought me to Ladakh. For the world, it will remain as the land of high passes but for me, it will always be the turf of Snow Leopards. My encounter with this mythical being was very dramatic. During my trials in the rugged terrains of Hemis National Park, I chanced upon sighting some of the rarest, robust and cutest species blissfully living in the most challenging surrounding including Bearded Vulture, Bharal, Piku, Pallas's cat, Argali, Urial but without the slightest glimpse of Snow Leopard. It was on the last day when all my hopes had conceded defeat and about to check out from my tent I noticed a tussle erupted in the opposite mountain after zooming in my camera I saw a male Snow Leopard facing a tough fight from the Ibex. Something strange to my sight. Never had I ever saw a wild cat being submissive and domineering at the same time. After falling down repeatedly from the strong kicks of Ibex the determined cat finally succeeded to scuffle his prey. Forever etching this very moment in my heart I advanced towards the home of another exalted cat 'The Bengal Tiger'.



The dry deciduous forest of Ranthambore recounts the heroic stories of many tigers and has always remained the paradise for those who wished to photograph the majestic Bengal Tigers in all their glory. During my three wildlife safaris, I happened to spot progeny of the Tigress Queen of Ranthambore, Machali. The grand entry of Arrowhead (Machali Junior) is still vivid in my mind when she crossed our safari jeep with a valiant gait as if she is our majesty and we are on her service. Her ever glinting which continued contacting our eyes without losing the luster was a magnificent sight to behold.


From Ranthambore, I headed towards Jhalana National Park, surrounded by the great palatial edifices of Jaipur, the park takes one takes you inside the secret world of Leopards. Not much popular amongst the Indians, the place was recommended by one of my wildlifer friends when he came to know about my Big Cat tour in India. On arrival in the city of Jaipur, I checked into my hotel for some relaxation before kickstarting my first leopard safari in the evening. Leopards are the silent predators and to sight them in the dense thickets of the forest one must possess a razor-sharp eye and mindful to every single moment. The company of an experienced naturalist Ashok Panika who was in the field of leopard conservation gave me assurance to track down at least one leopard in the evening safari. The dusk was rising but was not able to track down a single leopard, perhaps some things are not designed to happen as we want and therefore retired for the day. Nevertheless, we again went for the jeep safari next morning, as Mr. Pandit was explaining to me about the unusual acts of leopards we spotted a kill hanging on the tree we immediately realized the presence of this silent predator nearby. After waiting for 30 minutes as we planned to move ahead we saw spotted tail moving inside the tall blades of grasslands and voila! there he was sitting a few meters away from us keeping a watchful eye on our every action. My mind was echoing with the famous quote of "They are always watching you when you are in their region" so rightly said.




Gir National Park was my last destination on this great journey. Filled with great pride I crisscrossed the empire of 'The King of Jungle' who was once on the path of extinction before the stakeholders and local villagers put their best foot forward to surge the population of Asiatic Lions who faced persecution from all across the world. While penetrating the forest I chanced upon a pride of 1 male lion, 4 female lions along with their tiny tots. Lions share strong bondage with their family something very not seen in other big cats. With this, my dream journey came to a wonderful end in India. From Snow Leopards to Bengal Tigers, Asian Leopards and Asiatic Lion, I got the opportunity to know and discover their true nature while viewing them from close quarters.





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